Last August (2003), I had 5 days in Belize, 4 for San Ig, and 1 day on Caulker, just to see friends and talk to local tour guides. The first few days in San Ig were mainly about me being an American not in the groove. In Belize, you must find that groove. I felt I was under time constraints and nobody was where I thought they should be. I tried Mayawalk, others, I end up at David's waiting. In comes Carlos, he had just had a rough time at Mayawalk and was in to talk to David. He said "what are you doing today? I want to show you my village. Benque, everybody falls in love in Benque." Well Carlos was at the San Ig Market to buy produce for Sandy of La Plaza Bar across from the Xun ferry crossing. Off to Benque with fruits and a big water melon. We settle at La Plaza bar it is about 11:00. Sandy is from Canada, an independent gyal, setting up shop. Am I independent too or just lost? I buy beers for the guys, mostly tour guides with nothing to do. Somebody had left an adult rag at the bar the night before. They were laughing at the pictures. Carlos buys the next round. Sandy looks up "something is going on across the river". Before I knew it a van had come across the ferry and parked in front of the bar. At this time a white couple came running down the hill, he was in front, she was close behind. It looked like the bees were on them. She was trying to get the rope off his wrists. He was outdone. I had forgotten how long that road to Xun is, and it is all hill.
I took pictures of the bullet holes in the van, Rosario is on the cell phone calling the tourist police , the ferry crank guy is cranking crazy, the cops show up in a Toyota with shot guns. Carlos says "you have a camera Maurice, come on, I am going, we must get them, they are trashing our country" I said, "No thanks, I am under-insured.
He ran out to the police truck, aboarded and off they went. 1 hour later Carlos returned proudly with a cow skull, Sandy said "I know you had time to kill it, just amazing you had time to skin and dry it too."
Be careful when going to ruins or rivers that are very close the to Guatemala border. Chances are nothing will happen, but keep an eye on the surrounding bush. From the reports I have heard, most times they just want your cash and things of value, like cameras, watches, maybe shoes, and travelers checks that have been endorsed. Usually no one gets hurt, yet women have been groped.
I have been to Xunantunich since this event and felt comfortable. The tourist police likely have a larger presence now due to these events and the cruise ship traffic.